10 June 2022

Wallander and the Second Skåne trails Kiviks marknad

In the trails of Kurt Wallander 2.0 post 1 (on the blog)
Repost from las summer on Facebook

Kiviks marknad

First
This, the east coast of Österlen in Skåne is my favorite part, where my grand dad had his summerhouse. Tina Fennstadt and Anders de la Motte/Måns Nilsson write today about the area. And I will have reasons to do more post and trails about it. Just because I want to. Try to stop me, to no use.

Now onto Kiviks marknad.
When I was a kid the annual Kiviks marknad was a must. The old farmers and traders market started by the Hanseatic League in the Middle Age, was turned into a burlesque carnival during the 20th century.
My parents thought it was a dread. 50 000-100 000 visitors, thousands of traders, a temporary amusement park, Dare Devil bike riders doing amazing stunts and strippers. Live strip shows crammed in with the families eating roasted candy, buying cheap stuff that will fall apart as soon as they leave the field outside Kivik. Often the rednecks called Raggare showed up in big numbers starting riots and brawls with the bikers etc. The whole field was packed with people. It was Heaven and Hell at the same time.

To a police in duty it must been a nightmare. I guess my parents felt a bit the same. But to me and my cousins it was a paradise.
The same feeling didn't came back visiting it as a grown up. It was just horrible!
In Faceless Killers (Mördare utan ansikte) Kiviks marknad play a part.
But to understand the subtext when Wallander goes to the market is hard if you haven't been there. He could as well step down into the inferno.

And I think both the book and the Lassgård film misses it a bit. Because it would be a bit of an impossible mission looking for suspects there.
The British Wallander place the carnival in Ystad in dramatic scene. And yes, it is more contemporary to do it that way. Can't help to think that the Brits misses the whole thing with the mayhem at the original carnival. In Lassgård's Wallander he chase one of the killers down to the sea where the end scene takes part.

To my big surprise they had a mini version last summer (in the covid year of 2021), Far from the big spectacle it was before the Pandemic.So my surprised pictures out the bus wndow doesn't catch what Kiviks marknad is about. At least it is pictures of the market. The tents and attractions are really on a fraction on the big field placed beautifully by the Baltic Sea.

How to get there. Bus from Simrishamn or Kristianstad. Pågatåg to those places from Malmö.

Will add a map later. I also added some photos from another visit, to show you the feeling with the field, sea and sky.